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ImageDIY DLP SLA 3D Printer a buddy and I built(imgur.com)
submitted2 years agobyPanaetius
16 points17 points18 points2 years ago(4 children)
Really awesome printer! How long did it take to build and how expensive was it?
[S]14 points15 points16 points2 years ago*(3 children)
Well, 1.5 days to put together, but 3 days driving to various hardware stores to get various small bits and bobs that we needed. We started putting everything together last friday, and continued building it on sunday, playing some pinball and having a beer or two in between, plus generally goofing off with the UV laser and resin (which we plan on using to glue larger models together, with regular resin as glue). The post-cure box should only take around 2 hours to build, but we have to buy a suitable power supply before we can get started on that.
Total cost is somewhere between 1000 and 1500$.
Extruded Frame (cut) with screws and connectors: 300$
Arduino: No clue, had it laying around, probably 50$
Various other stuff like the build plate, aluminium rods that attach the bed to the z-axis, screws, cables, salt for the fish tank, power supply (12v, 5A), plus some tools we were lacking: Ive lost count, my best guess is somewhere around 100-300$
10m UV LED Strip (for post cure box, which we still have to build): 25$
That said, I live in a really expensive country, so YMMV
I was amazed at how quickly we were able to put it together, with nothing going catastrophically wrong. Building our Prusa i2 took way longer (heck, that one took almost a day to get the firmware to work). I think the experience we gathered from the prusa helped, but most of it comes down to very little fiddly bits, so less stuff that can go wrong.
2 points3 points4 points2 years ago(2 children)
Thank you for the informative reply! It sounds like you had fun creating this thing. I hope it turns out the way you like.
Also if its not to much so ask, I would love to see some finished prints from the printer.
[S]5 points6 points7 points2 years ago(0 children)
Yeah it was a lot of fun, especially since Ive never really built anything this size from scratch, so it was fun seeing my original plan turn into an actual thing (basically the same reason I got into 3D printing).
Sure, Ill gladly post pictures of finished prints, but since both me and my friend have busy schedules (and the printer is at his place), I literally had to leave yesterday after we got the first print done and we probably wont be able to work on it until next weekend. But Ill keep you posted when we do some more prints.
[S]0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(0 children)
Ok we did some more printing today and its working good so far (no more bed-leveling :D). So heres a small (not really, sorry, I tend to get carried away when writing stuff) update with some pictures.
My 10 year old laptop that we use for printing decided that it really didnt want to output 1920×1080 anymore, so we had to go to 1600×1200 (the next lower mode it supports), but the software doesnt really deal well with non-square pixels, so thefirst printcame out skewed (i.e. the software still assumed the pixels were square). That print also picked up some gunk that was floating around in the resin from a failed attempt (when the projector/laptop failed), which accounts for the bits and bobs attached to it, as well as some place where the supports attached to that need to be cleaned up better. Theres also some Z-Wobble that can be seen, so we need to add some guides to get rid of that.
TheCTRL-V test printturned out quite good (this time scaled in one dimension in the software to account for the skew), we decided to print it tilted to see how that improves the way flat surfaces come out(large flat surfaces tend to get a bulge, likely due to surface tension), so the lines you can see are the individual layers. Also, the FunToDo standard resin is really bendy when it comes out of the printer (and its still quite rubbery after post-curing some more), so that makes it difficult to remove prints without bending them. You can see the bend from removing it quite clearly along the squiggly line. Once we install a wiper, the surfaces bulges shouldnt be a problem anymore. The software had some errors on the last 5 layers or so, so the top-right wasnt completely finished (you can see it on the overhang), were not sure exactly what the cause was. Other than that the details turned out pretty nicely.
Im quite proud of theOctopus, at 50% scale its one of the best prints yet. Its bottom isnt perfectly flat, due to bending when removing it from the build plate and were probably overcuring the resin a bit when printing (too high cure times means layers below the current one get cured as well), but given how many tries we needed on our FDm printer with ABS to get it right and how this one looks on the first try, were really happy with it.
We also build the post-cure box, but I forgot to take pictures of it (just a cardboard box with a long UV LED strip glued to the walls, with some tin foil for more reflectivity). It works pretty well, especially considering that it only cost 25$ to make.
Next steps, well be replacing my old laptop with an ODroid with touch screen, to make the printer completely standalone (we already got the ODroid but the WiFi didnt want to work), and well install a rudimentary temporary wiper (just using a spare servo I had lying around) until we design a more permanent solution. And replacing the FunToDo Standard resin with a different, hopefully more stiff resin, well probably try the MakerJuice G+ or FunToDo Industrial strength.
We still need to fine tune some more variables (like exposure time), but Im pretty happy with how it works. And compared to our Prusa i2, its just way easier to work with. The bed doesnt need to be level, the distance of the bed to the resin surface doesnt need to be accuracte (+- 0.2mm is more than sufficient), and cleanup between prints consists of lowering the build plate below the resin a bit, scraping over it to get rid of any saltwater bubbles that stick to the build plate when the previous print was raised, and raising the build platform again to the printing position, basically by eyeballing it. Calibration of the projector takes literally 5 seconds and the built-in projector calibration image is dark enough so as to not cure the resin. So the thing Im most stoked about is how easy it is to work with compared to our FDM printer.
[S]3 points4 points5 points2 years ago*(0 children)
Video of the first printsorry for it being vertical, kinda hard holding my phone sideways with one hand (the other is on the shut down everything button).
Still got lots of stuff to optimize, increasing speeds for better print speed, adding a wiper and some other ideas we want to look into.
Resin used is FunToDo Standard resin (around 50$/l, didnt get around to testing MakerJuice resins so far), xyz resolution is 0.1mm, at that resolution the build volume is 19.2 x 10.8 x 30cm. The resin layer on top of the salt water is about 1cm thick, so about 0.6l of resin (around 30$).
4 points5 points6 points2 years ago(1 child)
i would love to build something like this, do you have any plans or code available?
[S]5 points6 points7 points2 years ago*(0 children)
Heresthe plan/blueprint for the frame, though we had to move some stuff around since the z-axis had more depth than anticipated (the seller didnt have a data sheet, so I went with a guesstimate), so the fish tank didnt fit in the original configuration. Mainly this involved changing the position of two bottom connector angles (no clue what theyre called in english) so the fish tank fits in between. We also got rid of one extruded profile between the projector mount profile and the frame, again for the same reason.
If I had to do it again, Id make the whole frame 10-15cm wider, so everything fits nicely.
As for electronics, theres nice guides out there for the stepper motor – EasyDriver – arduino connection and for hooking up a servo to the arduino.
Modified Marlin firmware, basically getting rid of/deactivating everything except for the z-axis. Its set up for the stepper motor connected to the arduino pins 8 and 9 (I forgot which one is which, if it doesnt work just flip them) and pin 11 for the servo motor for the shutter, iirc. The shutter itself is just hot-glued to the side of the projector, and the shutter is a stick (think chopstick) with a piece of cardboard glued to it, with a piece of black cloth glued on top to absorb light from the beamer.
Other than that, I can recommend theBuild Your Own SLA forums, which contain a ton of information.
Oh and in Creation Workshop you need to addM280 P0 S120to the pre slice GCode (to open the shutter) andM280 P0 S15to the start of the Lift GCode (to close the shutter), substituting whatever angles are correct for your servo/shutter for the 120 and 15 numbers.
2 points3 points4 points2 years ago(2 children)
Is the resin smelly? Does having a vat of resin just sitting out make a lot of fumes?
[S]2 points3 points4 points2 years ago*(0 children)
You cant smell it unless you directly put your nose over it, sitting 50cm away from it I havent noticed any smell.
The only time I noticed a smell while testing the printer was when cleaning the model in alcohol, i.e. the alcohol smells a lot stronger than the resin does.
You can sometimes see a small bit of fume when the projector light cures the resin, which is probably due to heat released by the resin when its curing (which is exothermic). Happens mainly on the first 3 layers, which have a higher curing time to ensure prints sticking to the platform.
Though its still advisable to open a window while printing to get some air circulation.
1 point2 points3 points2 years ago(0 children)
Its also very bad for you, skin contact specifically.
PowerSpec i31 point2 points3 points2 years ago(0 children)
This is really cool. Building a DLP SLA printer is on my list of things to do in the near future (like this summer)
[deleted]2 points3 points4 points2 years ago(0 children)
Oh man I love 8020 stuff. Was using it for projects before getting into 3d-printing. Not at ALL surprised to see it used for printers themselves!
[deleted]0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(1 child)
Not bad! Been a while since Ive been on the buildyourownsla website 🙂
Plan on doing a LittleRP thing and kickstarting it?
[S]1 point2 points3 points2 years ago(0 children)
No, sorry, this is a purely personal project and we have no plans of a commercial release or anything.
Besides, theres enough commercial SLA printers coming out/already out at the moment, ours doesnt bring anything new or exciting to the table, so there wouldnt really be a point in selling it.
0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(2 children)
So, I tried to search and find out how dlp sla printing worked but there surprisingly few good descriptions.
Anyone willing to write up a quick explanation for how it works?
[S]2 points3 points4 points2 years ago*(1 child)
DLP stands for Digital Light Processing, which is the name of a specific kind of projector technology (the other major one being LCD based projectors).
Basically, you slice the object into layers like you would on a regular FDM printer, but you slice them as images, white where the model is at and black where theres empty air,like this. Then you use a 2d projector to shine that image onto the surface of a photocurable (usually UV sensitive) resin. The white part gets cured (i.e. hard), the black part stays liquid. Then you move the build platform away from the resin surface by 1 layer height so new liquid resin flows in, load up the image of the next layer and repeat the process.
top-down(which is what our printer is using), where the projector shines from the top down onto the surface of the resin, and with the build plate getting lowered as the print progressed, with the model sitting on top of the build plate
bottom-up, where the resin in in a tank with a transparent bottom and the projector shines from the bottom up, through the transparent floor, with the build plate moving up and the model sticking to the bottom of the build plate, so the model is beneath the build plate (think upside-down makerbot)
The main difference on DLP SLA as opposed to laser based SLA (like in the Form 1) is that whereas the laser traces a line similar to regular FDm printers, with a DLP printer you print a whole layer (2d image) at a time. This also means print speeds only depends on the z-height of the model and the x-y size of the model doesnt matter (as long as it fits the build volume). Or in other words, printing two 5x5cm objects side by side takes the same amount of time as printing a single one of them.
Oh and the reason that DLP projectors are used is that they output UV light with little to no modifications (for instance our projector works out of the box without any modifications, which is the main reason we chose that model), whereas LCD projectors dont output any UV usually and need to be heavily modified (e.g. putting in a UV light source, among other things).
0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(0 children)
This is an awesome description, and one I wasnt able to find.
0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(4 children)
Nice printer!! where abouts in Switzerland are you??
[S]0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(3 children)
0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(2 children)
Im a Swiss living in sydney Australia, would recognise the 20 rappen anywhere!!
[S]0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(1 child)
Ah, I was wondering if anyone would recognize it, not that many swiss people on reddit.
0 points1 point2 points2 years ago(0 children)
Hahaha yeah not many on here!! Ful spass mit dem drucker!!
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